Gumption Coffee

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It doesn’t take flashiness to get my attention. A little effort goes a long way...you just have to go in with gumption, so it seems. The palette of blue denim, teal, and turquoise is funky and brave, but it’s the large hexagonal tiles on the floor that electrify the room. Because, beyond just being a color you’d never expect, the tiling is patterned with the white frames of triangles that almost fit into each other, set into rows with centers of angular collapse. It offers high contrast, especially with the standing tables in the center of the room and one blue booth with a few integrated side tables. It must be said that major amounts of paint chipped away on these few pieces of furniture communicates unspoken neglect despite the all-caps turquoise writing on the wall: “CAREFULLY MADE QUICKLY SERVED.” A fresh coat of blue and a quick dusting would elevate the space and the cafe’s messaging a thousand times over. But, focusing on what is, the decorative round walls—like a turquoise rib of a ship’s hull—behind the counter and a delectably scripted GUMPTION in dark blue just above its TV screen menus are components that voice some kind of cartoonish inspiration. The framed comic panels on the wall opposite the mirror that tell their story, from obsession to the customer experience, further bring the hammer down on how they illustrate their brand. As for this store, it was when the aux changed hands to the chilled out sort on the espresso machine that it all finally came together. His first selection? “For My Hand” by Burna Boy featuring Ed Sheeran. Hitting a wavy yet not beachy beat, the collaboration the world didn’t know it needed felt like the right track. Don’t ask me why. Ask the barista, with his finger on the phone and subsequently the cafe’s pulse.   

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Drink: Oat Cappuccino

I made two mistakes at this Australian spot: I had a Joe Coffee Company cortado minutes before, AND I got a cappuccino instead of a flat white. It grows with intensity, but I can’t be sure if this is attributable to the waning Joe or if it is their cappuccino’s nature. However, once the espresso does begin to speak for itself, it is less weak than balanced. I have a feeling that oat milk wasn’t the smartest choice either. What I’m saying ultimately is that I don’t think I chose well here. I accept the blame. The Goodness Galileo (what was on the hopper) was slightly robbed by my choices. The highlighted flavor notes of caramel and milk chocolate (of the Caramel, Macadamia, Fig, and Chocolate profile) aren’t as palpable as the description makes out. If anything, expect a very tame caramel, tamed presumably by the fig and macadamia. The fig is so subtle at the end, you almost don’t notice it. But, this is really what pivots away from caramel, so don’t be surprised if you don’t get the sweet you’re expecting. Because caramel isn’t my favorite flavor note, I’m not enthused with this drink. Nevertheless, it offers up what it needs to with a savory last sip. One thing: I wish they didn’t leave the origins of the blend off the front of the bag. All the bag mentions is that it’s an Australian creation and that it’s roasted in Brooklyn—it feels slightly misleading somehow. In case you’re curious: the blend is from Colombia, Bolivia, Guatemala, Ethiopia, Rwanda and Java.

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Price: Cappuccino=$4 (+Oat Milk=$0.8)

Hours: MondayFriday {7–18}; SaturdaySunday {9–16}

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The Uncommons

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Joe Coffee Company (Grand Central)