The Bagel Oven
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Outside, people trickled into this glass door in a strip mall—or, I apologize, shopping center. The bafflement was probably visible on my face. What was drawing people to a bagel place at noon? When I walked inside, no one was at the counter, as though the people I saw were phantom bagel buyers. My focus remained on the high counter, trying to get a look at the bagels beyond the danishes and butter cookies, but what I saw nestled a few steps past the self-serve coffee answered my question: a hot & cold buffet. I’d gotten so used to laser-focused bagel places, offering endless variety, that I’d stopped considering the nature of serving. You want a bagel here? They’ll select, toast, and slather it for you. You want something else? Well, you’ve come to a bagel place, so go ahead and arrange another meal yourself—kind and amount. There are a few seats inside and a few outside, and they are put to good use. I found my nook, backed by the chips and pushed up against the wall, with a view of the window and only enough room for two chairs (at a four-sided table). It made my day. I could be out of the way while still caught by distance glares of the DELI and HOT FOOD neons and remain within earshot of Spanish serenades. In fact, most of people—still arriving and departing steadily—spoke Spanish. What however broke out between exchanges about mayonesa, ketchup, and queso? Bagel. Bagels are the ultimate bridge of bodega, diner, and grab-n-go vibes.
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Drink: Coffee
I tried every coffee…just to make sure. First sip was the French vanilla, and it unfortunately had that fake vanilla flavor to it, like in cereal. Then I tried the hazelnut and decided that was for me.
Hmm, let me try the regular, just in case.
Best decision. I had liked the hazelnut because of the gentle yet salient nut flavor, but the regular had this characteristic plus its own toasty chocolate and fruits. It’s ambitious enough to stand on its own, but nothing intimidating or combative with whatever food (if you grab food) you choose.
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Food: Garlic Bagel with Scallion Cream Cheese
What I noticed immediately was that this place channels the bagel spots of old. You have 10 bagel choices, 5 smears, and eggs or bacon if you’re looking to be a little extra. A list of toppings? Nope. Cream cheese questionably swirled? As if—not even strawberry makes the cut. The bagel itself was toasted perfectly, darkened a tad, and the cream cheese amount wasn’t disgustingly heavy or stingy. One odd thing: as far as I can remember, I’ve ever experienced cream cheese dripping. The cream cheese broke down enough between the bagel halves to drip. No problem in my eyes, but it’s something to be aware of. The cream cheese goes full cream when you toast the bagel. I also grabbed some avocado and tomato salad, coleslaw, red onion, carrots, and celery from the cold bar as “toppings.” While not necessary (the bagel existed fine on its own), I’d recommend going this route if you’re looking for something that resembles lunch (which I was). It spiced things up just enough.