PAUL (Confluence)
112 Cr Charlemagne, 69002 Lyon, France
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At the bow of Confluence, the southern entrance, those attending this bakery have traded in sailor caps for toques. As soon as I walked up to the counter, the woman past the plexiglass picked up the tongs, at the ready like an unraised salute. She began clicking them above the pizzas and quiches and near the top shelf’s caneles, part de tarte à la rhubarbe, and madeleines. On flat wood trim along the tiles that I’ve grown to expect, “PAINS RUSTIQUES ET DE FANTAISIE” in a caps-locked, official typeface hides yet beautifies. A bretzel tower stands up, a checkerboard floor pulls you down, but the faux candelabras and sconces keep a husky glint going. The F. Bruhn prints of his still lifes of bread and butter and apples on plates in the sitting area are welcome early-20th century nods. The bread imitation is from exactly 30 years after PAUL’s founding. Unexpectedly warm in the tan metalloid fixtures and wood ceiling, it’s a setting that goes ahead and disputes the negative nature of the term “dated.” After 135 years, just pull out a vinyl or velvet Walter chair and know that for the date of here/and/now, you fit right in.
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Drink: Expresso
I didn’t want to spit this one out. This plus however didn’t rid me of harboring mixed feelings about drinking it. It isn’t sweet at all. It’s bitter with savory angle that I think even milk would have trouble navigating. Still a little scarred from my last bit of bravery, I would recommend not getting this espresso either, but mostly because the chocolate in the coffee notes are destroyed by dark roasting (think if you have ever burned chocolate in the microwave before). Actually, that is the exact flavor. Also know that if you order it to stay, it will cost 0.20€ more…and they will give you a mini escargot raisin (see below).
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Food: Mini Escargot Raisin
I expected it to be sweeter in order to combat the espresso’s lack of sweetness. I think that would make way more sense. That being said, this little pastry’s got a little crunch, lands butter forward, and is visually very cute. I think the visual nature is what it exists for primarily. If it’s supposed to be a promotion for the bigger one, it doesn’t succeed.