La Grange (in La Gloriette at Village Gastronomique)

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The spatial equivalent of fire dancing: there’s so much happening, you don’t know where to look first, yet there’s something pleasing in it all. But, there’s one catch: unless you’re always on the lookout like me, you do have to know it’s there. Outside of the Pathe movie theater is an outdoor-indoor food market called Village Gastronomique. It’s outdoors as you walk from store to store, however these arteries are covered by clear tunnel roofs, with each store having its own internal independence. Even though it was pouring, a man in a cap chose the patio chairs and burnt red rug right outside this quadruple threat—cafe, bakery, ice cream parlor, and chocolate shop. With the width of the tunnel roofing, he was at no risk of wind kicking up water at him, and with its transparency he could smell, hear, and watch the raindrops fall while he scrolled and sipped. So what about that fire dancing? Oh no, I haven’t forgotten. This moment was like the performers slipping on the hand loops of the poi. First la gloriette BAR A DOUCEURS flips a flame of ice cream in front of you, then a spark to the right is la Grange with its three menu boards with sets, drinks, and their proud creations scribbled in chalk marker. Then, there are the spins: a Crayola box display of teas, a stainless steel set of coffee dispensers including their signature Cafe LE CINQ, produced in conjunction with Vincent Ballot, and simple shelves selling bubble gum in jars, gourmet marshmallows, and even totes of fortune cookies. The second lick of light is chocolatier Maicon Dufoux, a winner of Le Guide des Croquers de Chocolat’s Tablette D’Or award, and a seating area with walls of glass across which enormous hearts dance. The amount of sugar in this place could take down an elephant. And yet, an Asian lady occupying one of the tables is just gazing at it all...her hand entering and exiting a purple bag of potato sticks—another twirl. The barista, the sunniest sort with a septum ginger beard and hair knotted back, spun things again.

“I like your haircut,” he said, noting my four French braids.

I smiled. What really is the distinction between haircut and hairstyle anyways? Things wound up again from there, a blind man accidentally walking into my table, a couple pushing their stroller out the opposite exit, groups taking a seat and that barista soon swooping in to gather orders. Each passing moment seems to bring with it more oxygen, fueling an unquenchable dance. And when our coffee conduit began intensely whistling along to “I Want it That Way” by the Backstreet Boys, it was like the universe coyly confirming my impression of inflamed choreography: “Yeah, you are my fire...”

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Drink: Soy Flat White

The soy milk really struggled to blend with the espresso. Interestingly, the espresso that they use is actually a joint project with a MOF roaster in Marnay named Vincent Ballot. While the soy milk was steamed heartily for contrast, a good inner white and tan top, proportionally the microfoam would be better classified as a cappuccino. I know why this happened. Without it being foamier, there probably would have been very thin contrast if any. Unfortunately, I really couldn’t register the two shots of espresso. While I love the idea of an affordable, plant-milk coffee option, I’d say that a fuller coffee experience necessitates opting for dairy milk. Every attempt should be made to fully appreciate Vincent Ballot’s craft.

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Price: Soy Flat White=3.8€

Hours: Everyday {1019:30}

✓ WIFI

Extra Notes:

This cafe is a GODSEND. Why? Because the city’s BasicFit is right next door. Okay, another question: why is a sweets store a godsend for a gym-goer? Well, because I can’t think of a better way to top off a workout than with a plant-based (oat, coconut, almond, soy) coffee. It warms you up, gives you some nutrients back, and tastes sweet without sweetener. This place is an underappreciated gym asset.

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Maison Roger

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Columbus Café & Co (Rue des Godrans)