French Coffee Shop (Montluçon)

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I present to you a mall cafe that does you one better. How, you ask? In a laundry list of ways. First of all, it isn’t manned by an unamused child in their twenties. Rather, a pleasant-mannered man is behind the counter in a black, Lacoste long-sleeve, amicably leading you to your order. I’m not saying there is anything wrong with the moody, mid-twenties character, but it was nice to break from that cliche with such a blithesome someone. Second, this coffee spot isn’t a counter or an enclosed circle. Instead it sits on a triangular wood panel, inlaid into the floor; seven pillars then give it corners and sides while stands of barrier tape designate what is cafe space. It’s as though an arrow points to the Carrefour, Claire’s, Marionnaud PARIS, CARRADOR, and others further within. In no way are you obligated to grab coffee and continue on—there is seating and the gentleman offers a convivial “for here” option. But, we’re waiting, is there anything else that makes it one better than the other mall cafes? Sure. There’s one more thing (and no, it’s not the numerous POUBELLE signs on loose leaf paper hung in every line of sight). The third thing is the various light forms. Someone knew that the radiating discs above weren’t going to cut it, so they added white neon above the counter, a back-lit logo on one of the pillars, and finally a screen box the size of a vending machine at the triangle’s apex. This last feature acts dually as an exit tempt, before getting eyes on the menu and a way to privatize the seating area. Could there be symmetry, more sophisticated design, a sense of cohesion? But, of course. Does it serve its purpose (and coffee) ad rem? Coffee, as far as I’m concerned, is relevant to any outing, including one to the mall.

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Drink: Allongé

It was really nice. That might sound backhanded, but it’s absolutely not. I have no complaints. It’s punchy, but not full on brawl, flavorful but nothing that would be unfamiliar or combative to a casual coffee drinker. And, one more not-complaint: it went well with the donut.

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Food: DONUT MYRTILLE

What a surprise all around. The case it’s in is refrigerated, so it is served cold. To be honest, I didn’t know what “myrtille” meant in French, and I didn’t really understand the employee’s explanation. I definitely heard the word “rouge” in there, which really confounded me. I couldn’t believe that it was blueberry because a blueberry glaze shell was just not how I’d ever come across a blueberry donut. Normally, they look like an old-fashioned donut with blueberry pieces inside. But no, no blueberries inside, just pureed and encasing a donut with a very soft consistency. Frankly, the donut itself reminded me of challah—soft but not too sweet. While many layers of odd, the donut wasn’t off-putting, and it sure was unique. My parting thought on this pastry is that offering it as donut holes would be PERFECTION.

Price: Allongé=1.90€; DONUT MYRTILLE=2.90€

Hours: Monday–Saturday {919}; Sunday {CLOSED}

✓ WIFI

Extra Notes:

The mall has WIFI, and it’s a super easy sign on.

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Selah Atelier

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