Amorino (Dijon)
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Watching the eyes light up of every person who pushed that cupid—and subsequently the door open—warmed my heart. Of course, there's no reason to think that the kaleidoscopic case of gelato wouldn't be enough to peck pupils with a glimmer, but this gelaterie isn’t simply making people smile; it is as though the place is dusted with light. It first catches all off guard, and then the brilliance settles around them. What particularly makes customers wide-eyed is the way that the place stretches up into a right-angled, vertiginous staircase. A tall break in the stonework—if you look closely, it looks like this was an intentional removal—brings the first line of black, iron rails into view. It’s almost a rote of passage for everyone to walk up to this break—a installed piece of wood turns it into a counter with a few of the cutest oak stools with mini backs—and (sometimes with camera in hand) marvel up at the unexpected expanse. The crystal chandeliers, the size and shape of oversized, beach balls, drip from brass chains. Looking up is a requirement, not a choice. Four gay troops in black toques behind the counter slickly and rhapsodically move through making the drinks, scooping the gelato, and delivering the goods. Select hands pound the powdered sugar container, regularly emitting sounds and sweet clouds. At some points, the woman on the register switches to English and begins pointing with verve to get the order right. And another employee kindly asks for the customer who just walked in to close the door. It’s warm to begin with, but the staff throws the blanket over your shoulders. One lady even stopped to appreciatively tell them it was perfect as she passed the counter one more time. Whether dusted light—or maybe it’s powdered sugar—this little spot stirs people, the cup clinks of the spoon audible as soon as they step inside, before they’ve even received a glass.
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Drink: Small Pistachio Latte
Immediate delight upon presentation which was whimsical, walnut pieces falling everywhere. For the price, it’s a big drink. The pistachio drizzle is the best part. I wish there was more pistachio flavor overall, and, as I considered this adjustment, it also occurred to me that a tweak to the presentation would benefit it too. Pistachio cream drizzled on the inside of a tall, transparent glass would have kept the flavor constant, plentiful, and—perhaps most importantly—tasty to the eye (subconsciously boosting the taste). Though, what I found in the end was enjoyment. Take it or leave it.